São Paulo


Well, it has been quite a while since we last appeared on this site. We have had an amazing six months of spending time with our families and friends in the US. And though our roots are still there with are family, friends and the homes we grew up in, we’re quite excited to be on our way to a more settled life – albeit in a huge city in a foreign country!

We have officially returned to Brazil to live and work in São Paulo. So far everything is great – we work and live in the Jardins neighborhood, which is pricey but quite lovely, filled with wonderful restaurants, insanely expensive shops and one of the nicest grocery stores in the city (I can even get organic yogurt there! Believe it or not, that’s saying a lot). We are currently in a fully furnished and functional studio apartment, which has been great (our first week in a hotel was less than ideal).

Though not pictured, it is complete with a nice, tiny kitchen where I have already baked part of a Fazenda Alfheim piglet. It is on the 19th floor, so has a bit of fresh air and an expansive view.

Work is going well. We have spent the first week or so mostly getting oriented and it’s looking like we’re going to really enjoy the work. We’ve already determined that we love the people we’re working with – 6 of us in total at the office. Here’s a shot of our first day on the job – exploring the company’s small project on Rua Oscar Freire, which will be Calvin Klein and Levi’s stores, in addition to a new Fasano Restaurant – Gero Panini with some fun green spaces.  Our primary focus at work will be on a much larger, mixed-use project, the details of which are not yet public…let’s just say we’re very excited about it!

Since returning, we have caught up with our expat-crowd friends, which has already begun to expand. It has been especially nice to have some friends to see upon arrival. We also had a special treat this past weekend when we got to spend time with Rance and Lone (of Fazenda Alfheim). We ate at Rodeio (a well-known and historically loved Jardins restaurant with excellent Picanha) and also attended a free orchestra concert at Sala São Paulo. This theater was remodeled from an old train station – it is spectacular.

That’s all for now, but we’ll be back soon to post more about our new life in São Paulo.

With only four days left in São Paulo before heading back to the United States, we’re reflecting on our time here in Brazil. Here are a few things we love about São Paulo:

Pasteis (pastels)

As you might imagine – Jeff’s favorite fried dough filling is carne com queijo (meat and cheese) and Suzanna’s is chocolate!

Coffee

Lanchonetes (read: drinking beers outside)

Modern Architecture

Floating Flowers

We pass by this pot of floating flowers on our daily walk to work – the colors change often, it’s lovely.

Marina

Our friend Marina has been so awesome during our stay in Brazil – she’s one of those special friends that you don’t come across every day.

Exploring São Paulo

It’s now long past the 4th of July, but for those of you in the USA, I hope you all had a wonderful red, white and blue celebration! We didn’t manage to recreate an awesome American BBQ, but we enjoyed some bbq chicken sandwiches, potato salad and a red, white and blue fruit salad in honor of Independence Day.

This is just meant to be a quick post to share a few places in São Paulo we’ve been enjoying along with a few pictures. As you can see from the list below, we’ve been busy exploring the city and busy at work as well (creating landscape plans, updating investment materials and helping to manage the hotel development project) – so, needless to say, time is flying by. We’re totally shocked at how our days here are dwindling, but happy to have some fun plans for the next month, which include: a weekend with Heinz and Elisabeth at their organic farm near São João Bella Vista, a few days and nights with Lone and Rance at Fazenda Alfheim, a Brazilian baby shower for Mirna, and a party at Picinguaba for FLIP in Paraty. And we just spent a few days in Ilha Grande and a few more at Picinguaba with two of our very best friends Tucker and Catherine (some pics and stories coming soon).

Restaurants:

Chou: Wow, what a special place. Not only was the food delicious and thoughtfully prepared, the ambiance, decoration and setting were perfect. The head chef works front and center in an open food preparation area between the kitchen and waiting area putting finishing touches on every dish.  We sat on the charming outdoor patio of this converted home with Leo and Brittany just a few steps from the herb garden.

Filipa: The Thai-Brazilian fusion cuisine is delicious and I loved my caipirinha with sake and lyche (thanks Brittany!).

Bardo Batata: Right across from our flat, this Swiss-style potato restaurant (still not exactly sure what that means, but that’s how they describe it) has incredible, thick potato pancakes with every filling imaginable!

Pilico e Bia: We enjoyed wonderful shrimp moqueca at this modest restaurant where a mother and daughter run the show.

Marina di Vietri: Reasonably priced, great Italian food – finally! Our new friends Michelle and Nigel introduced us to this restaurant in Itaim where they offer relatively inexpensive bottles of wine with traditional, tasty Italian food.

Kosushi in Shopping Cidade Jardim: Cidade Jardim is one of the fancier malls I’ll ever walk into and the price of the sushi supports it. However, the sushi was incredibly fresh and very delicious.

Veridiana: We’ve been to Veridiana a few times with Emmanuel and always enjoy their pizzas bem-passado!

La Frontera: Right near our office, this Argentinian restaurant is great.

Bars:

Blá: We went to Blá with Marina for a friend’s birthday party. We were upstairs in a private area, but the bar downstairs was packed with a fun atmosphere. At about 1am most of the crowd started to head toward the neighboring club.

Volt: Good drinks in this 80s decorated bar in Bela Cintra / Consolação. We enjoyed a few mojitos with Fernando here one night.

Boteco São Bento: Jeff and I enjoyed an incredible sunny Sunday afternoon together in Vila Madelena sitting in the open air bar with a sizzling platter of meat, rice, tomato vinaigrette, farofa and chopp claro in front of us. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Frederico Boteco: We went to this bar in Moema for the US world cup game. Bar food and drinks were good.

Tapas Club: This bar was on my list after I discovered it online, so Jeff and I went at 6, when it opened for Happy Hour on a holiday Friday – so it was dead, but the happy hour specials were a good value and the tapas we had were tasty. Looking forward to going back to hear some music at some point.

Mercearia São Roque: There is a unique feel to this typical open-air bar in Itaim with splashes of color and palm trees throughout. We had drinks with Jeremy and his wife here.

Other:

Le Tire-Bouchon: We were lucky enough to tag along with Emmanuel for wine tasting as he finalized the new wine menu for Picinguaba at Tire-Bouchon. We’re happy to know about this wine shop, which also has a little bistro offering wine parings.

Cristallo: We enjoyed a cappuccino with Leo and Brittany overlooking the tree lined street and park in Vila Nova Conseição. We’ve officially realized that a cappuccino in Brazil typically comes with chocolate powder in it – fyi!

Chocolate Lab: There is a little chocolate bar and café down the street from our office in Hygienopolis with little bits of dark chocolate heaven and incredibly tempting (and delicious) coffee drinks.

Pão (Padaria Artesanal Orgânica): Delicious, organic breads, need I say more?

Bella Paulista, Casa dos Pães: We’ve enjoyed a few lunches and bowls of Açai na Tigela at this bakery/restaurant/market.

Empório Santa Maria: Fancy shmancy grocery store that I could wander around in for hours and hours. Though I was disappointed in the lack of organic produce, I was impressed with the self-service wine tasting upstairs!

Zoológico de São Paulo: Tiger petting day – check it out.

Pinacoteca: What a spectacular building with intriguing and varied exhibits. Praça Luz, the park next door, is also great. Unfortunately the area around here is deserted with an unsafe feel – get to work São Paulo!

When I was about seven years old, my grandma “adopted” a Siberian Tiger for me for my birthday. The tiger has always been my favorite animal. And today, we actually pet a tiger. No joke. A 207 kg (455 pound), 19-year old tiger. I still feel giddy like a kid on Christmas morning after the whole thing. Truly a once in a lifetime experience.

Last night, at our friend Marina’s house, we met Rodrigo and Dami – a married, Brazilian couple, both of whom are veterinarians. They recently returned from Dallas after two years practicing at a private zoo as Rodrigo accepted a position as the Director of Zoológico de São Paulo, the largest zoo in South America. As we were talking, Dami was telling us about how she had done a root canal on a lion yesterday. After saying how incredibly cool I thought this was, I made an off-hand comment about how I hoped to pet a tiger one day.  The response: well, we’re actually doing a blood transfusion on a tiger in the morning – want to join? No brainer.

So, this morning we arrived at the zoo at 9am. Rodrigo was busy prepping for the occasion while Dami gave us a tour of the animal hospital/care center. After getting a close up look at a lion and various species of monkeys among other animals, we took a drive through the park to deliver some antibiotics to another tiger (the zoo has 12 total). The antibiotics were delivered via pressurized syringes through a blow tube. There were five syringes to be delivered in total, and unsurprisingly, the tiger didn’t react with joy upon being stuck. Having a tiger roar and leap at the cage wall just a few feet away from us was the perfect way to really get into the spirit of the day.

By the time we returned, the tiger was being sedated. It took four to five people to move the tiger out of its holding pen onto the operating table.  Then, it was intubated, which required Dr. Rodrigo putting his entire arm into the tiger’s mouth, and the blood line was inserted into its jugular. Over the next hour or so, about 2.5 liters of blood were drawn. The blood was being taken for a sick tiger from another zoo about two hours from SP. Once the transfusion was underway, we were essentially free to pet him and snap some photos. The paws alone were as big as my head…and heavy!  When the process was finished, I even got to help them move the tiger from the operating table back to the holding pen. From that point, they gave him some more drugs to wake him up.  Within about 10 minutes or so, he was back up and making all kinds of noise to let us know he was perfectly fine though perhaps not thrilled about the situation.

What an experience…still can’t believe it. It is definitely among the cooler things I’ve done in my life. Many thanks to Rodrigo and Dami for an incredible day!

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Even up close it’s hard to see the words on this sign at the crosswalk entrance into the mall. This pretty much sums up Brazilians’ respect for pedestrians, which, in our minds, is incredibly low. As our American friend here informed us: the first thing you learn when driving in São Paulo is that pedestrians never have the right of way and motorcycles always have the right of way.

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