Fazenda


You know when you haven’t talked to a close friend in a long time? And how the longer it goes without talking, the harder it is to pick up the phone to call that friend? It becomes procrastination for no good reason at all. I’ve come to realize though, that maybe it’s because the feeling of catching up about so many things is overwhelming even though you really want to talk to that person. Do you sympathize with this feeling? Well, that’s how I feel about our blog right now. But I’m here, digging myself out of the hole – ready to fill you in. The good news in all this time procrastinating is that we’ve come up with some fun and interesting post ideas – so please don’t lose faith, keep following!

Okay – buckle your seat belts, it’s going to be a long one. Or at least make sure you’re in a comfortable chair.

As you can see from our latest (very short) post, we’re back in Brazil! We’ve been settling into our little house in Picinguaba for almost two weeks now. Eleven days to be exact, which is the longest we’ve stayed in one bed for the past 3 months. It feels great. I’ve started to regain some sense of normalcy – like exercise, healthy and controlled eating, reading and painting. All part of longer-term goals I have for our six months in Picinguaba – on top of big career moves and experiences, of course.

Regarding our happy home, I’m sure you’ll be happy-for-me to know that we have, for the most part, a fully functional kitchen. A four burner stone and an oven – yup, an oven (can you see the big smile on my face? . . . that comes from 8 months of closing my eyes every time I scroll over delicious baked goods or casseroles on Foodgawker). So, our kitchen, supplemented with an $18 Target toaster oven and my mini-cuisinart schlepped from the states, is awesome. Now we just need a few more things like a pot and a pan to replace the $2 aluminum stand-ins we’ve been given that are surely killing us slowly, and a baking sheet or two. So far we’ve already conquered the following dinner menus: pumpkin whole-grain risotto, sausage pizza, pesto pasta, quesadillas and guacamole, hash browns with eggs, lentil burgers and hummus wraps. Can you see me glowing?

Okay, on to more business related things.

Since we’ve been in Brazil we spent 8 days in São Paulo catching up at the office and being hosted at night by our awesome friend, Marina. We spent a lot of time with Hans – a German turned French and Brazilian man with incredible experience in some high-end hotels, including the Fasano in São Paulo and Rio. He’s joined our team to help with the opening of the new hotel at Fazenda Catuçaba. He’s been wonderful to work with so far, has a wealth of knowledge we’re appreciative of and has the motivation to help us conquer our goals while working at Picinguaba and Fazenda Catuçaba. We also spent a good amount of time catching up with Emmanuel and prepping him for his three-week trip to Europe.

After our stay in São Paulo we made a quick day trip to the Fazenda to catch up with Emmanuel Cabale on all the things happening there. Though we hoped the construction of the three farmhouses (the hotel rooms) would be further along, they are shaping up quite nicely and in some rooms, floors and ceilings are being finished. It’s very exciting to see it all come together – after 6 years in the business of designing resorts, it’s really rewarding to see the buildings physically go up! During our day on the ground we worked on plans to improve a few things in the main house (for example: cutting interior steps from the dining room to the basement and adding two bathrooms) and walked around to gather our thoughts about landscape improvements.

After a full day of catch-up and work we went to our favorite “beyond organic” farm – Fazenda Alfheim. Because they deserve much more of the spotlight than this post would allow, I’m saving the good stories for another day. Stay tuned, but know we had a wonderful stay with Rance, Lone and Esben – milking cows, feeding piglets, learning a ton and enjoying truly excellent company.  We also learned how to play cribbage and have continued the competition here at Casa Jones. (Running tally is Z-2, J-1.)

We arrived to Picinguaba on Sunday with Emmanuel Cabale (Manu), moved into our new home and the next day hit the ground running working on various things. Jeff has worked his magic once again and has already created two financial models, one for the Fazenda works and another for hotel operations at Picinguaba, in addition to a few other financial models to help these businesses get back on track. I’ve been multi-tasking, per usual, on many fronts including helping to develop marketing text, new logos and an opening webpage for the Fazenda. I’ve come up with a few designs for the fireplace and the entry bridge at the Fazenda as well, which has been fun to put pencil to paper again after collecting some precedent imagery. Not having the resources of an architecture firm’s library can be painful at times, but I’m making good use of some web resources.

We’ve also begun inserting ourselves into the workings of Pousada Picinguaba. It’s already proving to be new and interesting work. We started our week off with a special guest – Dave Matthews – who was visiting with some friends from South Africa after a show in São Paulo. We spent a little time chatting with the three South Africans who have some really great projects in Africa. If you have a minute after this novel of a post, check these places out: The Cradle, Monogham Farm, and Uncharted Africa. So this threw us right into a role of mingling with guests, which we’ll get into a routine of doing more. We have also been working with the staff to help move a few things forward at the hotel, such as staff meetings and involvement, quality control checks and accounting. We’re having a blast so far, keeping very busy. We typically work on our computers at our kitchen table, which faces out over the beautiful view. We have no complaints.

In addition, we’re working on our Portuguese – we even went to the elementary school today with Amelie (the French/Portuguese Pousada intern) to talk to a teacher about exchanging English lessons to the kids for some Portuguese guidance. I hope this works out, primarily because I think it would be really great to get to teach little ones how to say apple.

Regarding our personal quest to settle into some sort of stable career after this is all said and done, we’ve officially set up a company in the US. It was easy and efficient, a whole different world from the process we’re looking into in Brazil. This is the case for a number of reasons, the first of which being that we’re legal US residents and citizens. The other reasons go into why it’s so difficult to do business in Brazil in the first place (check out Jeff’s post on this from a few months back, click here). Anyways, with the help of some good friends, including a few lawyers, we’re up and running as Rooted Journeys LLC.

What will we do with this company? Well, we hope to slowly unveil that to you over the next six months as we share with you our explorations, process, thoughts, and realities.

Thanks for hanging in there through this long update. We look forward to sharing some fun things with you over the next six months – so please bounce back with comments so we know you’re out there!

P.S. A quick shout-out to my elementary school teachers who follow our blog and tend to be our most frequent commenters – you continue to inspire me after all these years, thank you!

Today, our initial Brazil exploration trip officially comes to an end.  We head home to Washington, DC on the red-eye from São Paulo this evening.  I’m happy to say that it’s not a day of mixed emotions.  We feel great about the experiences we’ve had here, we’re excited to return home and spend some time with our families, and we’re very optimistic about the months ahead.  Things have been incredibly busy lately, so there really hasn’t been much time to reflect – we hope our time at home will give us ample opportunities for that.  In the meantime, here’s a quick recap of the last few weeks, our plans for while we’re home and our return to Brazil.

Recent Happenings

The last few weeks have been very busy as we have pushed to wrap up various ongoing projects (while also determining next steps).  Of course, this has meant a lot of time at both the Fazenda and Picinguaba, so no complaints there.  A quick recap:

  • Villas – continuing work in the hills at the Fazenda determining villa site locations.  This has involved lots of time on horseback as well as the construction and placement of bright red flags as visual markers, which has been fun.

  • Landscape plans – Suzanna finished up a conceptual landscape plan, then we made some decisions with the team about what to plant and where for maximum long-term impact and benefit.
  • Construction oversight and design decisions – with Emmanuel and Emmanuel, we’ve been actively engaged with the team as construction progresses on the hotel buildings.  This has been relatively simple, but has involved some decisions on the fly such as adding an exterior door to one of the rooms and extra windows to others, among other things.  We’ve also been involved in some of the decision-making on interior design (i.e., sink design and material, flooring, etc – this, of course, is more Suzanna’s department than mine).

  • Architectural Bid – we’ve spent a significant amount of time preparing and finalizing a bid package that will be given to a small, select group of architects who will compete to design the villas.  The bid package essentially consists of the project pitch, design parameters and interview guidelines.
  • Marketing materials – we’re working on developing a pitch book for the Fazenda.  It’s still a work in progress, but we hope it will be an effective marketing piece once finished.
  • FLIP party at Picinguaba – the annual Flip international literature festival in Paraty is a major cultural event in Brazil that attracts visitors from around the country and around the world.  Picinguaba held a great lunch with a well-rounded guest list to bring people together and celebrate.  The day was overcast, but the sun poked through just before sundown so the beauty of the place was not lost on anyone.  Article in Vogue on the pousada and/or party forthcoming.

Home Time

We’re incredibly excited for six weeks on American soil – time to catch up with family and friends, go to restaurants without wondering whether you’ll end up with what you thought you ordered, chow on some natural peanut butter and take advantage of good ice cream for less than $12 a pint.  As seems to be typical these days, our schedule is looking pretty packed while we’re home.  Here are a few highlights we’re looking forward to:

  • Maryland – time on the bay with the Fry family, crab feast, Kaboodle-ing (Bill’s boat)
  • North Carolina – time with the Jones family and Skip and Kit Fry, beach time, cruising on Dad’s new boat
  • New York – Will and Amanda’s wedding, friends in Manhattan
  • Boston – some quick QT with Kate and Aaron (this is special time for Suzanna and Kate in which they effectively divorce Aaron and I in favor each other) and Christine
  • San Francisco – our home-sweet-home…time with the Rogers’ family and friends, in addition to hitting up our favorite restaurants (especially craving some great Asian and Mexican food)
  • Maggie & Seth Engagement party – celebrating the nuptials to come

Return to Brazil

We’ll be returning to Brazil at the end of September, and we’ll spend the next six months living in the natural paradise that is Picinguaba.  We’ll have some involvement with the management of the hotel there while continuing our work on the development of the Fazenda.  More details to come on this next phase, but needless to say, we’re incredibly excited to be returning to Brazil to continue what we’ve started!

Last weekend we had the pleasure of spending 3 full days at Fazenda Alegre – the 500 hectare (1,250 acre) organic/biodynamic farm owned by Heinz and Elisabeth. We spent the weekend with Heinz, Elisabeth and Dorothea (Elisabeth’s niece visiting from Austria), their 9+ dogs, and 6+ cats. It was such a wonderful weekend that when I posed the “what was your favorite part” question to myself I couldn’t answer . . . bike riding, walking the dogs around the 20 hectare (50 acre) lake, learning about all the trees they’ve planted, horseback riding through the coffee trees that are currently blooming and beautiful, watering the plants in the garden, spending time with dogs and cats, or eating Elisabeth’s incredibly delicious farm-to-table organic meals.

Here’s a little series we took after biking to this gigantic rock near their property:

To sum it up, they were some of the healthiest few days we’ve had in Brazil. Fresh air, outdoor exercise, good conversations, delicious and fresh organic food, and soup for dinner. Dinner with Elisabeth is usually soup, typically served with excellent organic or homemade bread. The soups are homemade, fresh and delicious. I love the concept of having soup for dinner. It’s light, delicious and full of nutrition (when done right, of course). My favorite was Elisabeth’s roasted tomato soup.  In fact, it belongs on the list of my favorite soups of all time.

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Here are a few menus from the weekend:

Breakfast was a wonderful spread of:

-      Thin slices of organic bread
-      Homemade ricotta cheese
-      Blue cheese
-      Avocado
-      Radishes, cucumbers, and carrots from the garden
-      Papaya, pomelos (grapefruit) from the garden
-      Diced chives

Lunch (all products of the farm):

-      Veal w/ gravy
-      Black rice
-      Vegetable mix  from the garden
-      Salad
-      Sobremesa (dessert) – homemade strawberry yogurt with white strawberries from the garden

Dinner (soup, of course):

-      Roasted tomato soup made with mushrooms and served with a pile of diced up parsley in the bowl.
-      A display of Brazilian cheeses with apple slices, nuts and grapes

Jeff checking out the works

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The hotel buildings at Fazenda Santa Helena are moving along. We have walls along with window and door openings. Now we need a roof and lots of trees . . . along with a few other things!  The team is growing for the good – we’re working with landscapers focused in native trees, a landscape engineer from Paraty for the river and pool works and a hydraulic engineer for the sewage and drainage systems.  It’s always satisfying to see real, tangible progress!

   

Last Monday we drove about two hours outside of SP to visit a tree farm, which is owned by a São Paulo family. The property was originally purchased and refurbished as a second-home in the country, but Luli’s passion for planting turned it into more than just an incredible weekend getaway.  What began with cultivating seeds from around the world after each trip has turned into an extensive tree nursery and full fledge business (check out their website here). In fact, a few years ago they developed a partnership with Jeremy Chancey, an American from Florida with extensive knowledge of all things plant-related. He actually has some close ties to the design world back in San Francisco.  O mundo é um ovo, as they say here in Brazil.   

The property is spectacular.  It’s amazing to see the old pictures, neatly displayed in volumes of photo albums, of the property from 30 or so years ago with nothing but a run down house and degraded pasture land.  Today, the property includes a beautiful, large farm house with immaculate landscaping.   

The family was incredibly welcoming. Luli made sure to give us all of their phone numbers in case we need anything in São Paulo. After touring the property they brought out some cheese and nuts along with a bottle of Argentinean wine: Catena Alto Chardonnay. See the below side note on our South American wine education*. After this we had a delicious lunch, which included traditional feijoada (though they called this one feijoada light because it was made without all the random, fatty animal parts!) served with rice, banana farofa, salad and a zucchini parmesan dish. For dessert we had Brazilian blueberries (I haven’t seen these yet so I’m excited to know about them and find them on our own), other delicious fruit, bolo de rolo, good ‘ole fudgy brownies, chocolate sauce and ice cream! It was delicious and our hosts were so wonderful. You can see how Renata and her husband have been so successful with their spectacular, upscale cafe/restaurant Santo Grão in São Paulo. Jeff and I had a wonderful meal at their Oscar Freire location a few weeks ago and loved it.   

Okay, back from the food talk and back to our actual work! When we arrived we were greeted by Jeremy, Renata, Luli and Carlos who led us on an hour long walk through numerous trees of all different ages. Jeremy was incredibly resourceful and knowledgeable. He also was very helpful in translating plant names to English! Not surprisingly given other things in Brazil, common names in Portuguese are not very standard and often plants come with a variety of names. So for now, we’ll stick to the scientific names and English common names. I learned a ton with Jeremy, Renata and Luli and frantically took notes and pictures while we walked around. Here are a few to share:   

This ornamental palm can get up to 12 m high!

These Teddy Bear Palm have an white trunk.

Understory palms that like the shade.

This Hong Kong Orchid has pretty pink flowers.

These Flamboyant Trees grow fast and become extremely colorful.

Who would've thought a palm tree could be as soft as fur!

   

In general, as Brazil is a tropical place, it allows for trees and plants to grow much faster than we’re used to in the US (literally double the speed, Jeremy told us – the property proves this as the maturity of the trees would make you think they’d been there forever). There are three levels of trees – primary, secondary and climax. (I still have a lot to learn on this front, but here’s some good base information.)   

In addition to the phenomenal landscape, the house, which has been expanded from the original building twice, is so thoughtfully done that it looks like it could have always been there.   

Though the day was structure based on business intentions, researching tree and plant options for the fazenda, you can tell that we also enjoyed some traditional Brazilian culture: big, delicious lunch, coffee outside on the lawn and an incredibly welcoming and friendly family. Not a bad day’s work!   

*As a side note, we’ve started learning more about wine and have tried two Catena wines in the past week, both of which have been great. From what we’ve gathered there are three lines of Catena wines you can get outside of Argentina: Catena Alto – the highest end, Catena – middle, and Alamos – the cheapest one (still R$40 a bottle).   

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