Brazil


Well, it has been quite a while since we last appeared on this site. We have had an amazing six months of spending time with our families and friends in the US. And though our roots are still there with are family, friends and the homes we grew up in, we’re quite excited to be on our way to a more settled life – albeit in a huge city in a foreign country!

We have officially returned to Brazil to live and work in São Paulo. So far everything is great – we work and live in the Jardins neighborhood, which is pricey but quite lovely, filled with wonderful restaurants, insanely expensive shops and one of the nicest grocery stores in the city (I can even get organic yogurt there! Believe it or not, that’s saying a lot). We are currently in a fully furnished and functional studio apartment, which has been great (our first week in a hotel was less than ideal).

Though not pictured, it is complete with a nice, tiny kitchen where I have already baked part of a Fazenda Alfheim piglet. It is on the 19th floor, so has a bit of fresh air and an expansive view.

Work is going well. We have spent the first week or so mostly getting oriented and it’s looking like we’re going to really enjoy the work. We’ve already determined that we love the people we’re working with – 6 of us in total at the office. Here’s a shot of our first day on the job – exploring the company’s small project on Rua Oscar Freire, which will be Calvin Klein and Levi’s stores, in addition to a new Fasano Restaurant – Gero Panini with some fun green spaces.  Our primary focus at work will be on a much larger, mixed-use project, the details of which are not yet public…let’s just say we’re very excited about it!

Since returning, we have caught up with our expat-crowd friends, which has already begun to expand. It has been especially nice to have some friends to see upon arrival. We also had a special treat this past weekend when we got to spend time with Rance and Lone (of Fazenda Alfheim). We ate at Rodeio (a well-known and historically loved Jardins restaurant with excellent Picanha) and also attended a free orchestra concert at Sala São Paulo. This theater was remodeled from an old train station – it is spectacular.

That’s all for now, but we’ll be back soon to post more about our new life in São Paulo.

We left Brazil on Wednesday morning on a quick plane ride to Buenos Aires where we’ll be for two weeks before heading back to the states. The week before, we traveled from Picinguaba to the Fazenda to Sao Paulo, saying our good-bye’s along the way.

In Picinguaba we stayed up late at a beach bar with some friends over many beers.

At the Fazenda Lone, Jamie and Julie came to visit from Fazenda Alfheim for a goodbye dinner. We had a feast, which included their delicioso sausage – made fresh the day before – and Gazpacho from Manu. On Friday we had a party for Pasha, the artist-in-residence who also left this week (see his latest addition to the Fazenda landscape below), which gave us the opportunity to have a very brazilian festa, celebrating with the workers, the farmers and their families and Manu. It was a wonderful, truly Brazilian experience, complete with a huge cake and lots of singing and guitar playing. We left with tears in our eyes the next day saying goodbye to Roseangela and Gisele – our daily dose of laughter from the kitchen – and Manu, our Fazenda Catuçaba leader and friend.

We missed the hotel opening by a few days – but it’s officially open now with the first guests! Here are a few pictures of the almost-ready rooms and Pasha’s latest art installation.

In São Paulo we had a few meetings regarding potential opportunities for the future and said goodbye to some friends over a few good meals and caipirinhas. We went to Le Jazz and really enjoyed our meal, which included reasonably priced tasty house wine.  We also went to Marina’s for one last night, hanging out at her house where we were lucky enough to have Alexandre and his delicious tangerine and hot pepper caipirinhas with us.

Given the hectic nature of our last few weeks getting ready for the hotel opening, we had little time to reflect on our time in Brazil or ponder our future. We did, however, have time to enjoy the incredible experience we were given by Emmanuel. We lived in two 500-person villages, experiencing a side of Brazil that not everyone is fortunate enough to see. The people were incredibly warm and open to us and just as they became accustomed to two Americans running around, we became accustomed to their smiles, abraços, and laughter, which we’ll miss tremendously.

We braved the rain-washed crazy dirt road to Fazenda Alfheim on Monday to be part of their honey harvest – extracting what I think is the world’s best honey.  Unfortunately, the bees were still swarming in the room where the boxes were brought to and we weren’t able to harvest. They were able to harvest on Tuesday, though the bees ate a lot of the honey – check out their blog to read about it.

Though we didn’t get to experience the full harvest, Lone pulled one screen and showed us the basic process of removing the thin layer of wax on top of the honey combs. We were able to taste the “virgin honey” straight out of the wax, which was spectacular – truly amazing, with a surprisingly noticeably more potent taste.

We spent a bit of time with the crew there – Rance, who had been stung by 100 bees in the afternoon; Esben, who looked stunning in his bee suit; Lone, who continues to be endlessly inspiring; Jamie, our wonderful friend and chef who we got to steal away for Sunday and Monday; and the other interns, who are happy energy – which, along with eating the virgin honey, makes up for not experiencing a true honey harvest (this time). It was most likely our last trip to Fazenda Alfheim for the foreseeable future, which is incredibly sad. But we’ll stay connected and involved as I help to develop their logo and labels!

A huge thank you goes out to Lone, Rance and Esben for being such wonderful hosts to us on so many occasions – they have been a large part of our experience here in Brazil and are making our decision of whether to return to the US full-time or not much, much harder.

We’re alive and well, though you may not know from our lack of communication. We’ve been busy, busy, busy with visitors and working to open the hotel. See the recap below.

Jeff and I have two weeks until we depart from Brazil and head to Argentina. Though we’ve already sent much of our stuff home (thanks to the Joneses and Jonathan), we still feel unaware of the fact that we leave so soon with no certain plans of returning. We’ll spend two weeks in Argentina, including a quick trip to Uruguay, before heading back to the states. You can be sure our blogging won’t discontinue once we arrive in the states – we’ll be continuing our journeys and explorations within the states. We’re currently working on plans to obtain some touring bikes and explore some small-scale, sustainable farms. Agro-tourism is on our brains.

Recap of the past month and a half . . .

At the end of January our friend from San Francisco, Candice, came to visit us in Picinguaba toward the end of her 4-week journey through Brazil. We had a wonderful time with her and took advantage of the opportunity to hang out with some locals. We also met a French guy biking across the world – yes, across the world (he even hitch-hiked a sailboat ride across the Atlantic) – who joined us for a sausage at Linguiça do Zé at the border of Rio and São Paulo states.

Following our three weeks on the farm, holding down the fort while Manu was in Spain, we had a visit from Jamie – our good friend from Duke, who has become a chef and is now spending two months at Fazenda Alfheim. She bounced back and forth from Picinguaba and the Fazenda with us merrily until we met up with the Joneses. We had a very hot, but lovely time in Picinguaba for a few days. We hiked to Ponta Negra, which is a hike starting from Laranjeiras that takes you past 4 beaches, inaccessible to cars, ending in Ponta Negra, a little village where we caught a boat ride back to Laranjeiras. We, of course, stopped for a sausage sandwich at Linguiça do Zé on the way back. After we parted ways with Jamie we spent a few wonderful days at the Fazenda with Liz and Bruce, integrating some work as the project continues. It was a wonderful trip with the Joneses and though it felt very short we were thrilled to be able to show them a bit of our life here!

The next week, after a jaunt in São Paulo for work, Patty and Jonathan visited. They had a similar itinerary as our other visitors – starting off in Rio, taking the bus to Paraty and then making their way to us in Picinguaba. In Picinguaba we trekked to Praia da Puruba, which is a beautiful, secluded beach 20 minutes from Picinguaba. We took the local buses, and also made our way back to Zé’s for some sausage – walking the 10 km back to Picinguaba. Patty and Jonathan made use of our camping hammocks, trying to escape the heat for better sleeping. We then spent a night at Fazenda Catuçaba and made our way to Fazenda Alfheim to enjoy 24 hours with the crew, which now includes Jamie. They cooked up many delicious feasts while we were there (thanks to the hard work of the Fazenda Alfheim farmers and chef Jamie) – we felt privileged to eat piglet and their chickens – delicioso! (Not to mention Lone’s bread and honey.) We took a walk in the rainforest and dipped in the crisp river water, and as always, enjoyed the company of our friends.

Since our string of visitors we’ve done a bit of bouncing back and forth, but primarily have stayed on the Fazenda to help finalize the works for the hotel. Most of the furniture has arrived (beds are still missing though, so don’t come running to stay just yet). We’re working on the landscape – Jeff and I took a trip to Taubaté to scope out plants and pots – and we’re doing final touches to the rooms. Our first guests arrive on March 24th, so sadly Jeff and I will miss the opening, but we’re confident they’ll enjoy their stay. Over the next two weeks, we’ll continue with the final touches, arrange the rooms, work out a menu using our farm-fresh produce, and bring on a few extra staff members.

Throughout the past few months we’ve also been working hard to develop a master plan along with the architecture (with Marcio Kogan) for the 20 for-sale villas planned on 100 hectares (250 acres) of the property. This has been an interesting process to go through with a lot of lessons learned already, before even coming close to breaking ground). Currently, we’re taking a step back and re-assessing the development plan. The team will focus on the farm and hotel for the next few months – providing a great base to market the villas while also giving the team time to follow through with the villas project more wisely. The concept is spectacular – you can check out our website, which should be working soon: www.villascatucaba.com. But at this point, we need flexibility in our timeline to bring in some experts and possibly a partner to help us through the process. We’ll follow the progress even after we leave Brazil and keep you posted. As part of the villas project, Pasha Ra* has created an incredible landscape installation throughout the villa sites. It’s a truly spectacular art project and well worth a trip to see if you’re in São Paulo. If not, enjoy a few pictures below.

After a week of trying to hold down the fort at the fazenda, while Manu is in Spain, we had a wonderful weekend in Picinguaba. Our friend Candice was visiting, and though we didn’t do anything too adventurous, we had a great time living the Picinguaba life. This entailed drinking beers and pinga at one of the 4 beach bars while Suell played his guitar and sang some popular brasilian songs as well as talking to the riddle-man, a banana farmer from Ubatumirin (he literally speaks in riddles, pretty hilarious and impossible to follow in Portuguese). We also met Jaque, who’s a Frenchman biking across the world – no joke. He even hitch-hiked a sail across the Atlantic to Recife with his bike and will continue heading down through Brazil to Argentina, hoping to hop a sail across the Pacific eventually as well. We had a fun and delicious sausage sandwich together by the waterfall at Zé’s linguiça shack.

Stay tuned for more news from the Fazenda as we’re pushing full-force ahead to open by March 1st (just in time for Carnaval). One construction team decided not to show up Monday, so we may be in for an interesting last bit of life in the construction world of Brazil.

 

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